Two Islands One Thread Lombok and Bali Textiles from the Michael Abbott Collection

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Andi & Dina Foundation

Two Islands, One Thread
Lombok and Bali Textiles from the Michael Abbott Collections

Editors: James Bennett, I Made Rai Artha and Michael Abbott, AO, KC

ART GALLERY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA β€’ ADELAIDE

Contributors: Ahmad Sugeng | James Bennett | Lalu Hilman Afriandi | Dina Faisal | Khaerul Anwar | Salsabila Luqyana | Muchammadun | Bunyamin | Urmila Mohan | Lira Anindita Utami | Aditya Bayu Perdana | Tetsu Ito | Emily Collins | Michael Abbott | Philip Sykas | I Made Rai Artha | Bruce W. Carpenter | Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari | I Bagus Wijna Bratanatyam


Contents

Introduction 
James Bennett β€” 20

SECTION 1: LOMBOK β€” 27

CHAPTER 1 β€” 29 Interwoven: History and the exchanges between Lombok and Bali textiles | Ahmad Sugeng and James Bennett

CHAPTER 2 β€” 53 Yarn that tells stories: Six centuries of Lombok songket weaving | Lalu Hilman Afriandi

CHAPTER 3 β€” 91 Unwritten heritage: The story of natural dyes in Lombok textiles | Dina Faisal

CHAPTER 4 β€” 111 Rituals of the umbaq scarf | Khaerul Anwar

CHAPTER 5 β€” 123 For that sacred moment: Leang and osap textiles | Khaerul Anwar

CHAPTER 6 β€” 141 Threads of stone: Tracing the Tree of Life from Indian palampore textiles to Lombok gravestones | Salsabila Luqyana

CHAPTER 7 β€” 159 To appear and not appear: Figurative motifs in the Islamic textiles of Lombok | Muchammadun and James Bennett

CHAPTER 8 β€” 183 Foreign merchants Peacock Garden: Textiles on the statues in Taman Mayura, Cakranegara | Muchammadun and James Bennett

CHAPTER 9 β€” 201 Framed in photographs: Lombok textiles in the colonial era | Ahmad Sugeng and James Bennett

CHAPTER 10 β€” 219 β€œWe can do what the bird does, who makes a blanket of cotton”: Textiles in Lombok's Sasak and Javanese literature | Bunyamin

SECTION 2: CONNECTING THREADS β€” 241

CHAPTER 11 β€” 243 Towards a shared context for Lombok and Bali: From culture area to heritage in the work of Margaret Mead, Gregory Bateson and Donald Friend | Urmila Mohan

CHAPTER 12 β€” 257 The warp and weft between communities: Past and present gringsing connections in Bali and Lombok | Lira Anindita Utami and Aditya Bayu Perdana

CHAPTER 13 β€” 273 Kain Sembiran: A Bali place or Lombok textile? | James Bennett

CHAPTER 14 β€” 283 Journey to explore kain kumalo and tapo kemalo | Tetsu Ito

CHAPTER 15 β€” 295 Gold intentions: Batik perada of Bali and West Lombok | Emily Collins

CHAPTER 16 β€” 315 A rainbow over Lombok Strait: Pelangi textiles of Lombok and Bali | James Bennett and Michael Abbott

CHAPTER 17 β€” 333 They tear but never fade: Indian patola and their printed European versions in Lombok, Bali and Java | James Bennett and Michael Abbott

CHAPTER 18 β€” 349 Distant cargoes: European and Japanese export textiles in Lombok and Bali's cultures | James Bennett and Michael Abbott

CHAPTER 19 β€” 381 A view from the archives: European prints for the East Indies market | Philip Sykas

SECTION 3: BALI β€” 403

CHAPTER 20 β€” 405 Three colours of Balinese textiles: Their relationship to the body's energies ensuring health and wellbeing | I Made Rai Artha

CHAPTER 21 β€” 425 Speculations on the origins and history of Balinese weft ikat | Bruce W. Carpenter

CHAPTER 22 β€” 453 The women's art of songket weaving | Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari

CHAPTER 23 β€” 465 To dress a temple: A history from ancient Java to modern Bali | Aditya Bayu Perdana

CHAPTER 24 β€” 487 Ritual cloths of life and death: Lamak, rurub kajang and the star calendar | I Made Rai Artha

CHAPTER 25 β€” 509 Character and dress in the shadow-puppet theatre of north Bali: The Michael Abbott wayang kulit collection at Charles Darwin University | I Bagus Wijna Bratanatyam


Notes β€” 532

Map of Bali and Lombok β€” 546
Contributors' biographies β€” 548
Acknowledgements β€” 551
Bibliography β€” 553
Index β€” 563


Β© 2026 ART GALLERY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA . ADELAIDE

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