Two Islands One Thread Lombok and Bali Textiles from the Michael Abbott Collection
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Two Islands, One Thread
Lombok and Bali Textiles from the Michael Abbott Collections
Editors: James Bennett, I Made Rai Artha and Michael Abbott, AO, KC
ART GALLERY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA β’ ADELAIDE
Contributors: Ahmad Sugeng | James Bennett | Lalu Hilman Afriandi | Dina Faisal | Khaerul Anwar | Salsabila Luqyana | Muchammadun | Bunyamin | Urmila Mohan | Lira Anindita Utami | Aditya Bayu Perdana | Tetsu Ito | Emily Collins | Michael Abbott | Philip Sykas | I Made Rai Artha | Bruce W. Carpenter | Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari | I Bagus Wijna Bratanatyam
Contents
Introduction
James Bennett β 20
SECTION 1: LOMBOK β 27
CHAPTER 1 β 29 Interwoven: History and the exchanges between Lombok and Bali textiles | Ahmad Sugeng and James Bennett
CHAPTER 2 β 53 Yarn that tells stories: Six centuries of Lombok songket weaving | Lalu Hilman Afriandi
CHAPTER 3 β 91 Unwritten heritage: The story of natural dyes in Lombok textiles | Dina Faisal
CHAPTER 4 β 111 Rituals of the umbaq scarf | Khaerul Anwar
CHAPTER 5 β 123 For that sacred moment: Leang and osap textiles | Khaerul Anwar
CHAPTER 6 β 141 Threads of stone: Tracing the Tree of Life from Indian palampore textiles to Lombok gravestones | Salsabila Luqyana
CHAPTER 7 β 159 To appear and not appear: Figurative motifs in the Islamic textiles of Lombok | Muchammadun and James Bennett
CHAPTER 8 β 183 Foreign merchants Peacock Garden: Textiles on the statues in Taman Mayura, Cakranegara | Muchammadun and James Bennett
CHAPTER 9 β 201 Framed in photographs: Lombok textiles in the colonial era | Ahmad Sugeng and James Bennett
CHAPTER 10 β 219 βWe can do what the bird does, who makes a blanket of cottonβ: Textiles in Lombok's Sasak and Javanese literature | Bunyamin
SECTION 2: CONNECTING THREADS β 241
CHAPTER 11 β 243 Towards a shared context for Lombok and Bali: From culture area to heritage in the work of Margaret Mead, Gregory Bateson and Donald Friend | Urmila Mohan
CHAPTER 12 β 257 The warp and weft between communities: Past and present gringsing connections in Bali and Lombok | Lira Anindita Utami and Aditya Bayu Perdana
CHAPTER 13 β 273 Kain Sembiran: A Bali place or Lombok textile? | James Bennett
CHAPTER 14 β 283 Journey to explore kain kumalo and tapo kemalo | Tetsu Ito
CHAPTER 15 β 295 Gold intentions: Batik perada of Bali and West Lombok | Emily Collins
CHAPTER 16 β 315 A rainbow over Lombok Strait: Pelangi textiles of Lombok and Bali | James Bennett and Michael Abbott
CHAPTER 17 β 333 They tear but never fade: Indian patola and their printed European versions in Lombok, Bali and Java | James Bennett and Michael Abbott
CHAPTER 18 β 349 Distant cargoes: European and Japanese export textiles in Lombok and Bali's cultures | James Bennett and Michael Abbott
CHAPTER 19 β 381 A view from the archives: European prints for the East Indies market | Philip Sykas
SECTION 3: BALI β 403
CHAPTER 20 β 405 Three colours of Balinese textiles: Their relationship to the body's energies ensuring health and wellbeing | I Made Rai Artha
CHAPTER 21 β 425 Speculations on the origins and history of Balinese weft ikat | Bruce W. Carpenter
CHAPTER 22 β 453 The women's art of songket weaving | Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari
CHAPTER 23 β 465 To dress a temple: A history from ancient Java to modern Bali | Aditya Bayu Perdana
CHAPTER 24 β 487 Ritual cloths of life and death: Lamak, rurub kajang and the star calendar | I Made Rai Artha
CHAPTER 25 β 509 Character and dress in the shadow-puppet theatre of north Bali: The Michael Abbott wayang kulit collection at Charles Darwin University | I Bagus Wijna Bratanatyam
Notes β 532
Map of Bali and Lombok β 546
Contributors' biographies β 548
Acknowledgements β 551
Bibliography β 553
Index β 563
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